A few years ago, Roberto Levinson would wake up dreaming of chilaquiles. He’d open Grubhub or Uber Eats, type in his favorite breakfast dish and come up empty-handed. Even when he did find restaurants offering the crispy tortilla pieces, or totopos, they “weren’t the real deal,” he said. “They’d say they were chilaquiles, but that was not how I knew them growing up.”
Levinson moved from Monterrey, Mexico, to Manhattan about 15 years ago. Back home, Sunday breakfasts with his family were a tradition, rotating between a handful of local restaurants.
“I associate those meals with connection, family, good memories,” Levinson said. “I always had that special connection with breakfast and family.”
Origin story
In New York, he had watched the rise of excellent Mexican restaurants, each catering to its own niche — from upscale fine dining to neighborhood taquerías. Still, he felt the city lacked a place where authentic Mexican food could be enjoyed throughout the day, and one that was also accessible through modern delivery platforms.
In June 2022, the idea struck: someone needed to build that experience. At the time, Levinson didn’t realize it would be him. But that realization became the foundation for creating Ánimo!, the restaurant he would go on to launch.
From there, he started developing the idea and menu with he began developing the idea and menu with a few early collaborators. He then decided to look for a space and assemble the team Ánimo! has today before launching in October 2024. They expanded from just breakfast and lunch offerings to dinner service last March.
Levinson wanted Ánimo! to mirror the warmth of Mexican hospitality, starting with the restaurant’s name. In many Spanish-speaking communities, “ánimo!” is an expression of encouragement — a boost of energy, a pat on the back, a reminder to keep going.
“Since we started mainly as a breakfast place and then evolved into an all-day Mexican restaurant, we thought the city’s high energy needed that encouragement — ’ánimo’ — to thrive,” Levinson said.
Getting chilaquiles right
At the core of the menu is, of course, the dish that started it all. Though chilaquiles may look simple, Levinson knew how much precision they require: the totopos had to be smothered just right, in between soft and hard. The salsa needed the right amount of spice without going overboard.
From the start, Ánimo! committed to authenticity, serving dishes as they would be found in restaurants across Mexico. That decision has paid off. Customers often tell Levinson that the flavors transport them back to meals they’ve had abroad — in Mexico City, Oaxaca, Tulum or Mérida. While such dishes aren’t always easy to find in New York, they’ve become increasingly recognizable to travelers who seek them out, and many say Ánimo! “got it right.”
“Recipe-wise, we believe Mexican food is amazing as it is,” Levinson said. “We don’t need to tamper with it, fuse it with another cuisine or bring in Tex-Mex. All of those have their place, but they can’t be called authentic.”
Opening with hospitality
While Levinson is new to the restaurant industry, he briefly owned a coffee shop in the East Village up until the start of the pandemic. Despite the differences in menus, he says, both businesses are about creating an amazing experience for anyone who walks through the door.
That focus on hospitality helped Levinson make the most of obstacles to opening Ánimo!: city permits, construction delays and a three-month setback when a contractor mishandled a key gas connection.
“As much as that was frustrating and hurt, we took the time to perfect, or at least try to perfect, everything we do for the opening,” Levinson said.
The staff used the downtime to refine recipes and strengthen operations. Levinson also took his time with staffing. Chefs underwent trial runs in borrowed kitchens to showcase their cooking under real conditions. Still, Levinson prioritized values over resumés.
“Technical skills matter, but more important is personality and vision – if it’s a true calling, if they’re passionate about creating a great guest experience,” he said.
The result is a tight-knit team of 33 — most of whom are part-timers — who share a commitment to hospitality and consistency.
Before the coffee shop Levinson worked as a hospital administrator, a career that shaped this philosophy. In hospitals, he oversaw cafeterias and food services, where hygiene, preparation and guest care were just as critical as in a restaurant.
More importantly, he saw firsthand how empathy and compassion could impact people in difficult moments.
“That is the same case for any hospitality business, where a few minutes of just being in a place where you’re treated nice and with respect and with care can do great for somebody’s mood,” Levinson said. “I know the impact that we have in this hospitality world – why not try to use it for the best?”
Tasting and listening
While chilaquiles remain the restaurant’s signature, other dishes have earned equal acclaim. Morning favorites include conchas and the huevo con barbacoa taco, while dinner standouts include enchiladas with mole poblano. Levinson takes particular pride in the mole, made Puebla-style — slightly sweeter than its Oaxacan cousin — perfected after countless rounds of testing.
Recipe development was extensive. Friends, family and community members were invited to sample and give feedback that led to adjustments.
“It was just a matter of being receptive, open-minded, flexible and not being stubborn,” Levinson said. “Sometimes people have an opinion, and if you just toss it out, then you’re missing out on making it better.”
The power of authentic food
The taste-testing and listening paid off: Guests today often remark that the flavors taste exactly like what they experienced while traveling in Mexico. Better yet is when they tell staff the chilaquiles or conchas remind them of how their abuelita used to make the dishes.
“Just hearing the people light up when they taste something that reminds them of home,” Levinson said. “Those emotions that the food brings just fill me with joy, because that’s what we are aiming for … for anyone getting to know the real, authentic cuisine of Mexico.”
Looking ahead, Levinson and his team hope to showcase even more regional Mexican cuisines. The staff travels often, both around New York to learn from peers and to Mexico for inspiration. Earlier this year they visited Mexico City; in January, they’ll head to Oaxaca.
“We want to bring those flavors back and share them authentically,” Levinson said. Ánimo! is also celebrating Mexican Independence Day through Sept. 16; learn more about this celebration and their offerings.
1004 2nd Ave.
New York, NY 10022
Hours:
Sunday: 8 a.m.–3 p.m.
Monday–Saturday: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–10 p.m.
(212) 837-1791
Levinson’s lessons for entrepreneurs
- Don’t try to do it alone. Build a strong team, Levinson says, including people who can complement your strengths. Find mentors in the industry. He also cites “Unreasonable Hospitality” by Will Guidara as especially influential.
- Stay open to feedback. Pride can be a barrier — listening to trusted voices, as Ánimo! did with their community taste-testing sessions, only makes the product stronger.
- Storytelling is key. “People buy into the heart and the story behind it,” Levinson says. “So make sure that you have a very compelling story behind what you do.”
- Be honest with yourself about your “why.” “If you’re doing it just because you want to be famous, popular, for the money, then you’re probably in the wrong business,” Levinson says.
- Think long-term. You don’t want to get burned out, Levinson says: “This is a marathon. It takes a little bit of time for people to get to know the concept, the restaurant, the food, the people, and it’s day by day… Perfection is impossible.”
